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After chemise dresses, cut straight and gathered to a high waist with a sash or drawstring, became the dominant fashion, around 1800, there was no longer a need to describe their silhouette, and the term chemise reverted almost exclusively to its former meaning [that is as an undergarment]. In figure 3, you see an example of the robe en chemise showing the drawstring at the neck and a sash at the waist

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For the bigger boundary list especially white, ivory, overly casual pieces, and attention-stealing choices the guide to what not to wear to a wedding is the safer reference